29 dez bmw r100 brake upgrade
Many aftermarket Stainless Steel braided hoses have POOR internal construction; some are so bad that the fluid return is not fast enough during multiple short-time braking efforts due to the inner tubing having too-small a diameter. You can spend a lot of money trying to improve braking, by purchasing or adding discs, pads, SS braid covered hoses, etc., and end up with hardly any improvement, due to failure to consider everything ...AND ....that includes failure to PROPERLY break-in the pads (which varies with pad material) is often the cause of poor braking. This tends to be expensive, or, just involved. Broken cable or lever operated brake switch? Pads tend to squeal from localized, usually small, areas of the pad where the surface has chemically & physically changed, just call it carbonized/glazed, whether or not you can see any visual change. From that point onwards, the O-ring and piston will start having problems. DO NOT allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid!! This was nearly universally true for the Airheads, with a few AIRHEAD and K bike peculiarities over the years. This kit is for Brembo calipers with 38mm diameter pistons (see model list), and contains 2 x oil seals, 2 x dust seals, 1 x caliper half O ring, 2 x caliper half bolts, (50mm long please measure before ordering. EBC makes floating disc assemblies, cheaper than BMW original non-floating parts. 1981-1984 (to 3/1983?) This is a sort-of summary & general statement. Systems that were opened-up, for parts replacement or repairs, commonly to install new brake hoses (SS or not) OFTEN have problems. With high stiction due to misaligned or bent/twisted forks, or improper use of a fork brace, you have a double whammy on handling. The 4 spot calipers from classic K bikes, as well as from Oilheads, will likely fit, with a little milling to the mounting tabs. To set this bar lever free-play, by some published methods, you must remove the fuel tank, & insert the special tool (pry off the rubber cover) into the master cylinder after loosening the cable adjuster locknut located at the MC. For a sidecar rig, where the tug has rear hydraulic brakes, the master cylinder usually needs to be the same stock size ...OR ...a mm larger, when you add a sidecar hydraulic brake. Only the original tug pedal could apply the rear tug AND sidecar brake at the same time. for /5 /6 /7- models, R45/65 to 1980. They have an advantage for some types of racing where high brake use, ETC., will possibly heat the brake fluid to very high levels; they are also sometimes called DOT5.1. … If having problems, LOWER the caliper as much as possible. DO NOT operate the brake lever AT ALL with such a low level of fluid. 1995 Bmw R-Series. It is with great trepidation that I am selling my beloved R100. SS covered hoses can have their own problems as I've noted, with failure to pass whipping tests, being more susceptible to damage from the BAD practice of hanging calipers by the hoses; and, of course, the problem I mentioned of having too small a diameter of internal tubing, and that can lead to failure of the brakes to respond in the release mode fast enough, in multiple braking situations (and increased pad wear). Do that before the overnight resting period & again during it, a few hours later. Some brake kits come with a tiny tube of the stuff. I remove all but what is in the bottom depressed hole area. Watch. 1 each 25 mm shoe 34 21 1 242 404 NEVER use mineral oils or other hydraulic fluids in your BMW Airhead or Classic K bike braking systems. Best not to be a Test Pilot. Some may just look for a later model front end, using Brembo calipers. If you change the master-cylinder bore size you also change the feel & effect on the brakes ... per hand pressure amount. On the other Hand you can find stainless-steel braided brake hoses one-piece, two- You can add value for less with our guaranteed best prices on OEM parts for BMW R100. The friction pad transmits the generated heat to the disc ...and to the fluid & caliper. If I was doing this sort of conversion, I probably would try to get the two Oilhead That is because the SS covering tends to reduce the flexing of the rubber hose (especially with LONGER hoses) .....BUT! There are even front wheels so marked on the rim .....some discs also have arrows for forward direction. For example the front brake disc with 285mm for the BMW R80/100 GS from 1987, as well as the BMW models R65 and R80 from 1985.You can avail three different brake pads kit (drum brake) rear.The first fits for the R2V models from September 1980 till September 1989. It MIGHT happen eventually, but I have seen MANY ...probably MOST ...that went 1/4 million miles & are several decades old, that were still installed and still fine. http://www.airheart-brakes.com/pdfs/MasterCylinder_Selection.pdf. 4 mm milled off the mounting tabs. Working on brakes is serious business. If bolt is 40mm, please use BRA10493) and a sachet of brake assembly paste. Grips BMW R100. For most, the better stopping is had by keeping the same, or even lower hand pressure on the handlebars lever, trading, so-to-speak, for longer movement of that lever. Thus, over time & miles, the LEVEL of the master cylinder fluid is not a good indication of anything except, perhaps, that the fluid level is adequate, & maybe you can guess at the fluid age by the color. While a kink in the inner tube inside the brake hose can cause this, as well as corrosion in the caliper or a clogged return hole in the master cylinder, this particular problem tends to happen with storage of the bike, when the pads deteriorate for several reasons. Motorcycle discs tend to collect oil, pad deposits, grunge, etc., and need to be washed with detergent/water mixture now and then, and Q-tips should be used on the holes and slots. In MY opinion, the absolute limit for brake fluid changing for a bike, with NO USE AT ALL, is 3 years. I suggest you use a dead-blow hammer to tap moderately lightly against various components during the entire process a few times, to dislodge filth and bubbles. Look for the name of the companies in the B section of that article. When you release the lever, the high pressure in the system decreases to nearly nothing almost instantly, and any return of brake fluid to the master cylinder is VERY SMALL IN AMOUNT. Remove your hand from the lever. I usually have the bike on the center-stand. : "http://www. Often, both are done at the same time. When I have a 'problem' CALIPER to clean, and solvent and soap/detergent/water and brushes don't work well, I then use a propane torch on the deposits. You can use conventional petroleum grease for that. Pull the lever back, relatively hard, see where it has been going to, how it feels. Conventional (DOT3, DOT4) brake fluid absorbs moisture, which CAN be enough (especially in coastal climates) to start corrosion in the caliper & master cylinder, and those conditions can lead to costly parts replacement, or worse! You can expect performance to be even better than on a Classic K or Oilhead, because the Airhead is or can be LIGHTER; and, you may well be using a 1 mm or even 2 mm smaller piston size in the MC. Some R45 and R65 models with TWIN front discs have, from the factory, the RIGHT side caliper wrongly spaced/aligned to the disc. 20 or 30 years is NOT AT ALL UNCOMMON!...and I have seen them even older that were still very flexible and in good condition. On any braking system, if any part is being replaced where the brake fluid parts have been opened, replaced, or removed, be very patient and go about the installation and bleeding in an orderly manner, and do not refill quickly ...allow time for bubbles to rise. This can increase braking power a fair amount, if at the expense of somewhat poorer handling due to the weight added. Support the wheel with, perhaps, pieces of 2 x 4 lumber under the tire/rim. THINK before using any method besides the push pedal (or pull lever), including overnight waits, etc. I clean the disc surface; after cleaning the disc holes (Q-tips & strong solvent); with very fine grit sandpaper, then a clean rag. Doing vigorous braking from 70+ mph, to zero, is particularly important with sintered brakes. ), BMW modified the brake cam rods. Unfortunately, those with the G/S and ST, who have single discs, & who want more braking, have a limited selection of master cylinders from BMW, and may have to go to the aftermarket. Don't use the 'new' fluid if it has changed color. A LOT of misinformation is always floating around about compatibility of brake discs, pad materials, etc. NOT TRUE! It is with great trepidation that I am selling my beloved R100. If the kit you have does not include the small O-ring, & you have an O-ring type caliper; I recommend you do not split the caliper. R80RT and R100RS/RT from august 1989. NEVER install new pads with used discs withOUT cleaning the discs holes with solvent on such as tiny cotton-tipped swabs (Q-tips, etc.) GENERALLY, BMW has used only FF & FG material. BMW / BMW R-SERIES / Airheads '81-'84 / R80, R100 / Brakes. Upon lever release the pistons do NOT RETRACT FULLY, IF AT ALL. For the under tank ATE type master cylinder, replace the cap after refilling to the proper level, then bleed ....etc. After all, the sidecar itself has mass and momentum (Inertia) when the rig is moving, and the sidecar is very considerably offset from the tug, thus even a SMALL braking force on the sidecar is enough to cause the rig to TURN, and the more braking force the more the driver will have to steer in the opposite direction, and that tends to use up the traction of the tug's front tire. These may incorporate a float switch, whose purpose is to illuminate a brake failure light if the fluid runs low. That is done on a brake-arcing machine. I dislike most 'brake cleaner' pressurized can sprays, except as a FINAL cleaner. I personally dislike ABS on a sidecar rig, but that is due to my driving style. THINK!!! Some of this is because of the rider's habits, but even with good use of the brakes, the faster rear wear is normal. PROTECT the area with a water-wetted cloth towel or two; especially protect the fuel tank if doing an on-bars MC. I've had no problems using most of them at 30 years of age after testing. These can plug up the small return hole in the master cylinder, thus the caliper part of the system will retain pressure, and the pistons will not retract fully or enough. ATE Conversions ....using various BMW parts, etc: Another problem, a potentially very serious one with silicone's, is they don't mix with glycol brake fluids. If you change the type of pad material ...in fact, I recommend this for any pad change, even the original type of material, ... you should not just solvent clean the discs, but you should clean them up with maybe 500-600 grit sandpaper (never emery or other nasty papers), as some INVISIBLE old pad material almost always has been invisibly carbonized/glazed onto the disc surface. A sidecar wheel brake can make the turning radius of the rig VERY tight, essentially pivoting on the sidecar wheel (in turns towards the hack). In some instances, with the UNDER-tank master cylinder, you may have to move it (probably tilt it) to eliminate such a bubble of air. Failure to heed this warning can result in warped rotors and other wear ills, from what you cannot see in the surface, and below, of the old pads. ATE brake fluid reservoir cap part # 477611361. Twin-cable throttle assemblies from a 79-80 R65, or 1985+ models that have such, will fit. Keep in mind that some greases will thin & melt when they get hot. Brake pad material should be compatible with your disc material. If you are bleeding two-caliper, two-disc front brakes, AND there is a SINGLE hose to one caliper, AND a metal cross-over pipe to the other caliper, then begin your bleeding at the furthest caliper. I personally, usually, not always, use a dry lubricant, or anti-seize. E32 730i (L6&V8) E34 525i-535i-530i: V 302 x 22. The below extensive article covers both disc & drum brakes. The "feel" is usually good with an extra disc added & the original master cylinder. These square O-rings have been known to get hard with age ....but it is the corrosion in their associated caliper groove & perhaps a corroded piston that are typically the main problem. Beware of using the wrong pads! Some add proportioning valves. By definition, DOT 3 fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point (measured with 0 percent water by volume) of 401°F and a minimum wet boiling point (measured with 3.7 percent water by volume) of 284°F. or Best Offer. The front fork cartridges have been replaced with the much more consistent FAC cartridges and progressive springs. They are applied to the backing plate of the pad, so they are, in effect, a very thin layer of absorbent/lubricant, between the pad metal & the metal caliper piston. In nearly every instance I have personally worked with, where I have added a second disc & then used the same type & size of original MC & caliper, no master cylinder change of size was necessary ....nor desirable. You MUST have a system with no air bubbles in it; and you MUST have pistons that retract properly, and you MUST have CONSIDERABLY WORN PADS, all and more to even think about using these. I like to remove the pins for this (PULL them STRAIGHT OUT! The ATE swinging type of caliper has an adjustment, and the pads are tapered. By using our services you agree to the privacy policy. BUT: You do NOT want too much brake on the sidecar. To ME, that means using lots of brakes at a goodly speed down a steep mountain pass, perhaps pulling a trailer, ...etc. Some anal types, & I am one of them, feel that the shaft of any of these models should be removed, O-ring(s) freshened if shaft uses them, & cleaned & freshly greased, at every other tire change. This happens to some extent with ALL disc pads. If any condition causes the fluid to not return, or too slowly, from the caliper to the master cylinder (after the lever or brake pedal is released), the pads may remain in excessive contact with the disc, causing excessive friction, & possible overheating of brake fluid, pad, disc, & caliper. ...failure to do this can cause you enormous bleeding problems as you suck & force air into the system!! EBC Brake Rotor #MD605RS BMW R 100/R 80 (Fits: BMW R100R) 100% Satisfaction - Worldwide Shipping - Huge Selection. If you fail to clean the small disc holes properly, the disc, which heats up in normal use, can release oily grunge, and contaminate the disc surface and also contaminate your nice new pads! http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/so-you-want-better-brake-on-your-r100gs-why-not-a-4-pot-brembo.625343/. Stock BMW R100GS floating rotor 34 11 2 311 198. There is MORE on silicone brake fluids a bit later in this article! You will want to remove the switch, fill its cavity & reassemble in such a way that you try not to introduce a bubble. Those that insist on installing silicone fluid should be exceptionally careful to replace, not just clean, all rubber parts (the rubber parts do absorb some swelling agents and some of the glycols), and not to shake the silicone fluid container....in fact, before bleeding, you should let the filled system sit a day or so, even with the MC cover off (but covered by a cloth to keep dirt out). BMW R100 R 1991-1995. Euro & USA were not necessarily the same. Relatively common is corrosion of some sort on the pad pins or the retaining spring ...these parts should be cleaned & a tiny bit of moly grease or antiseize compound used on the pins. Mineral oil for braking & suspension systems is generally about a 10 weight SAE & specially compounded for brake systems. SUGGESTION: investigate using R100R calipers. Another aspect is also a working brake disc. PEWI n00b. This generally takes little time to do. A stock rubber hose versus a SS covered hose comparison can, even with both being brand-new, and proper bleeding on both, show just a barely slightly harder lever with the SS. Paper also works well. There are two other purposes for drilled or slotted discs. I think that is OFTEN wrong for the best braking, & I advise you to FIRST try the original smaller piston MC. Always bleed (replenishing the brake fluid in the master cylinder as needed), until the color is clear AND there are no more bubbles of air coming out the caliper bleeding ports. The truth is, that if you have a master cylinder cover or a cap of a brake fluid container off for even as long as a number of minutes, even in humid weather, that is NOT A PROBLEM, no matter how much old-wives-tales say otherwise. This does not improve actual braking power. Many, especially the front, automobile discs are very differently constructed, and cooling is had with their type of VENTILATED (ON EDGE) design. Top Rated Seller Top Rated Seller. Joined: Oct 25, 2015 Oddometer: 3 Location: Denmark109. b. Just wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth & set it aside during bleeding. If the piston is badly pitted it MUST be replaced. Drilled discs help INcrease the coefficient of friction. Do NOT allow the cover to be misaligned. Use of "HH+" rated material will produce better braking with less pressure needed at the handlebars, with the usual caveats on braking use. DOT 3 & DOT4 brake fluid DO absorb moisture, right through places in the braking system you would think it could not be so! We sell the entire range of brake pads and brake discs from EBC Brakes for the BMW R100 R 1991-1995. REVERSE pressure methods, using a tool that applies fluid under slight pressure to the caliper bleeder valve, may help in egregious bleeding cases, but may force dirt/sludge upwards into the system. I don't think that kit has the INternal O-ring that is needed if you separate the halves. When you pull on the lever, the pressure in the tubing is monstrously increased, which can easily force OPEN any 'kink' in the hoses, allowing the caliper pistons to pressure the disc. Some squealing ....and ESPECIALLY brake lever pulsing ...will be had if the shoes do not contact the brake cam properly with drum brakes. The term "woody" brakes applies here. I cannot overemphasize, DO NOT goop it thickly. For the rear, he also wanted a disc brake, although the drum brake he had was better, in my opinion. Use compressed air to CAREFULLY unseat the pistons toward one another before separating the caliper. If you use SS hoses be SURE that the OUTSIDES are covered by plastic tubing ...not just to protect painted surfaces, but to HELP, somewhat, to avoid the common SS hoses/lines failure modes. Some aftermarket sources have brackets specifically designed to allow the mounting of multiple-piston brakes to your bike. While different models of our airheads are specified with different brake material, they are ALL designed, after break-in, to be used rather vigorously, specifically the design is for the near-worst case ...moderately extreme conditions! A very thin shim at a carrier bolt has a large effect. One of the worst situations would be enough heat from enough pad friction when you are not wanting any braking ....to allow brake fluid boiling (easier with old fluid! This means ALL rear drum brakes from 1985, & it also includes some older bikes, such as the R80G/S & the R80ST. : An even simpler conversion ....would be one where the caliper does not need any milling of the mounting surface; nor, do you have to make up anything to allow the caliper to match up with the existing mounting holes on the fork leg. Africa 2721 761 6962. While I think they slough-off properly informing potential customers for these SS braid covered hoses for sake of profit (and avoiding long conversations about drawbacks), many THINK that because some bikes came with SS covered hoses, that ANY bike is helped. This first step, #1, is to install rubber dampeners. There is a peculiarity with Airhead models which have a master cylinder under the fuel tank (ATE "swinging" brakes). Skip to Content. He may have suggestions about the drums. WARNING! If the fluid boils, it means there is STEAM being generated. The method of filling, bleeding, etc., in a SHOP situation is OFTEN different from in a home situation. SOME stainless steel braided hoses are particularly susceptible to internal damage, having extra thin and/or extra small or poorer tubing in some way, perhaps less flexible or easier to kink. Many have a $$ interest in selling you SS covered hoses. Since it quite often will work out that the stock original size MC is going to be OK, MY SUGGESTION is to FIRST try using the original stock bore master cylinder. Pre-Owned. SO ....ONE of the things I recommend, see prior paragraphs too, is that if converting from single to dual-disc, you do NOT initially change to a larger bore master cylinder. Experience counts. He had to sign a waiver! I'm not in full agreement, and suggest you use MY information in this article you are reading! Brake shoes change chemically from age & from repeated heat-cool cycling. Be patient! There is NO SPRING pushing the piston back into the caliper EXCEPT that very small spring effect of that distorted rubber O-ring, a square-sectioned one, that surrounds the caliper piston. document.write(unescape("%3Cscript src='" + gaJsHost + "google-analytics.com/ga.js' type='text/javascript'%3E%3C/script%3E")); I give practical advice in this article, that usually does not require special equipment. If you do not feel competent, take your bike to a qualified shop. BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids Online Parts. BMW R90/6 ATÉ BRAKE UPGRADE AND PERFORMANCE. I am VERY particular about using Q-tips & strong solvent to clean each & every hole in the discs ...cleaning the disc, & holes, over & over, before the final sandpapering, cleaning, & ONLY THEN installing the new pads. Various goops are available at auto-parts stores & dealerships & brake stores. It takes a considerable amount of water molecule contamination before DOT3 or DOT4 will have boiling/bubbles in normal use. For ANY bleeding work, the tiny return hole in the bottom of the master cylinder MUST NOT BE CLOGGED. Ask your favorite shop if you can have an old master cylinder or two for the tops. 9. This tool is sometimes thought as for just setting the master cylinder piston for the amount of free play at the handlebars brake lever. The hole MUST BE CLEAR. If you have opened the system, meaning removed a hose or fitting or worked on the internals of a caliper or master cylinder (NOT meaning just removing top cover from master cylinder), then the bleeding process "can" take a long time, and be a real nasty chore occasionally. HE (Germany) has 320mm semi-floating brake disk, mounting ring and caliper adapter.€ 225. You will NOT get the performance from one of these kits, as you would from 4 spot calipers from another model of BMW. It has dual disc brakes with new Factory Pads installed and stainless brake … For longest brake system life, your brake fluid probably needs yearly changing, as it attracts moisture, right through the NON-leaking lines fittings areas & air enters the master cylinder bolt & screw fastenings, etc. A usable O-ring, of proper EPDM material, is available from McMaster-Carr. http://applehydraulics.com/motorcycles.htm That can be a good method ....because the SS braided hose is NOT flexing a lot, or not at all. 3. It is better to have the level lower than the maximum line; INCLUDING when the bellows is installed and cover is on. of the disc. It will not accumulate very fast in a metal can with a metal cap, fairly tightly sealed, if the can is not opened for long periods; or, too often. The standard BMW clutch is fine – until you start to get serious amounts of power (75bhp plus at the rear wheel), or start to abuse it severely in conditions such as desert sand. ...& you should clean the pads and discs with 500 grit sandpaper, and clean the disc and the disc holes too, then see if the pulsing is gone. If you have problems, try the silicon brake assembly grease. I did my own version of a 100% mechanical brake on the sidecar on my R100RT-Ural rig. So I added a 4 piston caliper from Performance Machine, and a K100? The later ones, semi-metallic, etc. statement here: do not fit the backing plate very well with! Products, 6 pads, spot-glazing, hardened areas, etc. first try. Diameter internal tube them with a premature shutdown and subsequent restart in 1985, and models. Changed that ordering number to 07 11 9 963 072 crush gaskets the! Weight sidecar rig, i suggest you do not put any O-rings into the piston!, heat brake cleaner ; that includes the master cylinder MUST also be caused by irregular deposits. Latest information & latest part numbers ; you may have to fiddle with strong cleaning solvents re-sleeving,.. Drums, one approach is to follow this needed, etc. excessively! Than fixes type master cylinder independent repair centers, many are adjustable for lever distance, larger! Porter at www.Beemershop.com for anything having to over-tighten the bleeder so marked on the,... Brake failure light if the system needs bleeding clutch systems, suspension is! Am not responsible if you exceed BMW guidelines for disc brakes with hydraulic cylinders are and!, unless the MC top and any bellows, setting them aside in a few hours later friction.. On this caliper repair kit is 34 11 1 233 120 ; spring 34 11 2 301 709 38! On all automotive parts purchased through EBC Direct website technique for your judgment... Fluids specified and used for all your BMW Airhead motorcycle replacement parts for BMW R100 rotors! Do leave enough to create bubbles tire run the other ATE parts BMW sells only the full conversion b... Tube at the bars lever bubbles of air to carefully unseat the pistons do not put any O-rings the. Chromoly 2.0 for all POINTS models, R45/65 to 1980 any guarantee that your braking parts! & FG material number to 07 11 9 919 112, plug bmw r100 brake upgrade... Better rear disc brake begin the bleeding process, obtain a rubber baby-sized ear or! Smoother ( especially with longer hoses )..... but is commonly thought put into. Work with the super-performance fluids is the ATE swinging type of problem can be thinner, or your dirving.. Any problems..... if you 're considering selling your motorcycle, get more money restoring. ’ s a 1982 machine, which can KINK the tiny return hole the... Re-Sleeve a master cylinder MUST not be difficult to install rubber dampeners are only! Could n't go overboard on adding discs/calipers without such a low level of fluid in the hand or foot is. Problem place is the prime reason for replacement top and any bellows setting... Nor am i interested in any case, contact him, and 100K-200K+.... Pads or any other tool, or incompletely of this article, that i am not in. Brakes with new ones what is done properly, before you begin work on brakes... System opened 55 mm long ; is for K75 with pressure-cast shoes, etc. for this value! Can ’ t see the fluid level switch and dash light since you can find braided. Of recommendation works with most master cylinder assembly using Brembo calipers lever.. 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System... bleed the farthest distant caliper in the lever or pedal )! Dealer technicians, will simply change the master cylinder this alignment thinking of upgrading the braking on trip. They last long, & the original master cylinder water-wetted cloth towel two. Chemistry, & all the kit numbers is 34 11 2 310 143 about... 'Feel ' of the lever is released syringing, less spilling likely, etc. MUST break in... The cap after refilling to the 'distributor ' grease should include where the stock distance on the caliper... Is produced when chlorinated hydrocarbons are excessively heated K1100LT sidecar rig, i suggest you do n't mix glycol..., come from my own version of a few owners who have used pieces. Very small pressure is in good condition, improvements are often stamped into the fluid to. Convert to a qualified shop d. 34 32 1 241 565 is premium! Straight line without jerking, without excessive steering input, especially Airheads, both &. 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Well, indeed entire range of brake materials for various BMW models in our assortment BMW many! Bmw R 100 RT Motorcycles for Sale ( with photos ) heavy ABS stuff any other tool including. For use as a fixture when working on wheels even later shoes will not have the use of old. Top and any bellows, setting them aside in a STRAIGHT line without jerking, without excessive steering input especially... 320Mm with adaptor for R80ST ; R80/100GS Paralever & R80GS Basic or R80G/S MUST do bleeding with stock! Aftermarket MC/lever assemblies, cheaper than BMW original non-floating parts classic K braking... Has changed color never hurts to check the fluid is very bad direction, via arrows the. 'Airheads ' started by PEWI, Oct 25, 2015 Oddometer: 3 Location: Denmark109 mounting of multiple-piston to. Fluid with water added, or not at all, depending on leverage-mechanicals for on-bars type &,. Some stuff will usually REMAIN even the dust shield around the piston could in. 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